General Hatchling Care 

 

 

 

 

People tend to house hatchlings in tubs because it is easier to make sure they are eating and defecating.  You can use a variety of tubs to house your hatchlings from RUBS really useful box, under bed storage boxes, faunariums to purposely made hatchling tubs. You can house more than one hatchling together but personally I would only house them alone so you can keep an eye on them.

 

 

In your hatchlings tub regardless on the size you need to put in some things that will make them thrive. They need a warm hide we find Wax worm pots work great, just cut a hole in them and put some kitchen roll in so they have something soft to sleep on. We also use Wax worm pots for the moist hide, do the same as with the warm hide but spray the kitchen roll. They also need a water dish, for this we use a pop bottle cap they are a perfect size for hatchlings.  If feeding mealworms you will need a dish that the mealies can't escape from we have found that caster cups work really well as they are low and the leopard geckos can see into them but worms can't escape. As with any leopard gecko regardless of age or size they need their live food dusting 5 days a week with calcium and 2 days a week with multi vitamins, also always have a small dish of calcium in there to prevent MBD in the leopard gecko, again a bottle top works great.

 

 

 

There are only 3 safe substrates for hatchlings and they are Kitchen Roll, News Paper and a bare floor. These ensure that your hatchling doesn't become impacted. It is totally us to you which one you use, but before using a loose substrates please do your research and weigh up the pro's and con's

 

 

 

When it comes to feeding hatchlings there are a couple of routes to go. Pin Head Crickets are a great size for hatchlings but not so good for us because they always escape. Mini Mealworms are also great for hatchlings they stay in the bowl and don't escape much and they are great to gut load because they will eat anything.  Hatchlings will not want to eat until they have had their first shed or after they have had their first poop

 

 

Leopard geckos can live for up to 20 years, reaching adult size (and sexual maturity) at 8 months to 1 year. They reach, on average, 8 inches in length (nose to tail tip) and weigh anything from 50-100g.

 

 

Select one that looks healthy and is responsive when handled (babies should be flighty, adults may be more tolerant). Look not only at the gecko's general condition, but also at its living conditions (these will indicate how it has been cared for and whether the conditions may have affected its health). Only select a gecko from a shop/breeder in which all animals are healthy and well cared for.

Healthy leopard geckos:

1. Should be alert when handled.

2. Tails should be full and plump (not dehydrated).

3. Bodies should be reasonably plump (bones should not be visible).

4. Stomachs should be rounded/full, but not distended (unless it is a gravid female) or showing signs of internal bleeding/bruising.

5. Skin should appear healthy ("sweating", open sores, blisters, discolored areas, signs of infection and dehydrated looking skin are indicative of a problem) and without mites and/or ticks.

6. Eyes should be bright and clear (there should be no swelling, discharge or dried residue).

7. Mouths should be firm and clean without discharge.

8. Noses should be clean, dry and without discharge.

9. Limbs/jaw should be firm (not flexible/bendy- this could be indicative of metabolic bone disease).

10. Toes should be without unshed skin, bleeding, swelling or signs of infection.

11. Vent area should be clean and without prolapsed organs.

12. Faeces should be solid, black/brown; with whitish urate (diarrhoea/odd colored stools indicate a problem).